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We know that the wind is responsible for the generation of the waves that are able to move along the surface of the water of the seas and oceans.It is unusual for the trade winds to generate large waves.
However, tropical cyclones do generate strong irregular waves, and most of the waves observed in the intertropical regions originate in the higher latitude regions, propagating far and wide for thousands of kilometres.A particular type of waves are tsunamis, which are not related to the wind but to earthquakes or the eruptions of submarine volcanoes.
The different types of waves are: Free or oscillatory waves: they are represented on the entire surface of the sea and are due to variations in sea level.We already know what types of waves there are.
However, when a wave is generated, we can divide it into several important parts.Still water line:The first thing we talk about is a line that corresponds to the level of the ocean when it is not affected by waves.
It is the moment that is taken as a reference of the ocean for a long period of time.
Thus, when the waves occur, you can do an operation and add and subtract the height of the waves with respect to that measurement.What we see is that this line of still water is marked in the center of the deep water wave, being located much lower when the waves are coastal.
Therefore, it is an ideal reference location if we plan to find out the height of the waves, for example.Wave crest:It is the point best known by all and one of the ones we like to observe the most.
In this case, we speak of the highest point of the wave.
It is famous for surfers and they are recognized by the point of white water and foam that is generated when the wave begins to bend and fall, "breaking" against the coast.Valley:Many do not know it, but it is the opposite of the crest of the wave.
This is so because it is the lowest point.
If you want to see it, youre going to have to pay attention to the lowest point between two waves.Height:Sometimes, we confuse the height with the crest.
However, the height of the wave is the difference between the crest and the trough.
That is, what that distance measures is the height of the wave, while the crest is the highest part in which the wave is located.Wavelength:The wavelength of a wave is what measures the horizontal distance between two waves.
The measurement can be made between crest and crest or valley and valley, but it is essential that you can do it if what you want is to evaluate how it can break.Period:The period of a wave is the time that occurs between one wave and another.
To get this measurement, what is done is to choose a fixed point and calculate the time it takes for the crest of the wave to pass to the second crest.
This is especially interesting when we see that the sea is "moved", that is, when it breaks immediately.
At the same time, this time is also measured from valley to valley.Frequency:Here we have the frequency, which is something similar to the period.
However, the difference is that it only measures the total number of waves that pass through a reference point per unit of time.Amplitude:The amplitude is the distance between the line of still water and the crest of the wave.
Basically, it could be said that it is the height of the middle of the wave.HOW IS THE SEAS CLASSIFIED?Low wave → 2 meters or less in height.Moderate wave → between 2 and 4 meters high.High wave → more than 4 meters high.Now that we know better about the waves and that they are a phenomenon produced by the winds in the water of the seas that constitute a visual spectacle and a means of relaxation at the same time, lets enjoy this great application to the fullest.
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